Dior presented the 4th edition of its art project “Dior Lady Art,” where select contemporary artists reimagine the iconic Lady Dior bag. Having the project’s origin in 2016, the French fashion house choose Shanghai as this year’s location at which to present their redesigned bags, namely at the ART021 Shanghai Contemporary Art Fair.  In designing their restyled Lady Dior Bag, each artist used embroidery, patchwork technique, and a variety of printing techniques on the fabric, as well as modern 3D printing. Eleven artists from around the world presented their unique version of the Lady Dior bag, with textile art surfacing as the theme for Dior Lady Art #4.

迪奥发布了其艺术项目“Dior Lady Art”的第四版,选择当代艺术家重新想象标志性的Lady Dior包。该项目起源于2016年,法国时装公司选择上海作为今年展示其重新设计的手袋的地点,即在ART021上海当代艺术博览会上。在设计他们重新命名的Lady Dior包时,每个艺术家都使用了刺绣、拼接技术和各种印刷技术的织物,以及现代3D打印。来自世界各地的11位艺术家展示了他们以纺织艺术的表面作为Dior Lady Art #4的主题的独特风格的戴妃包。

The history of the iconic it-bag dates back to 1994 with Gianfranco Ferré, then the creative director of the Dior Fashion House. The handbag was made of stitched fabric and was initially dubbed Chouchou (translated literally from the French as ‘favourite’). And indeed it was the favorite bag of the first lady of France, Bernadette Chirac. She subsequently presented a black lacquer Chouchou to Lady Dianna on the occasion of her visit to a Paul Cezanne exhibition in the Grand Palais. It was fashion love-at-first-sight; Lady Di became the bag’s most ardent admirer. Thereafter, the Chouchou picked up the pseudonym of Lady Di-or (said like ‘Lady Di’). 

Prior to the launch of the Lady Dior project, changes had already been made to the classic bag under the auspices of Raf Simons, Dior’s previous creative director. Simons’ time saw a transformation of some aspects of Lady Dior’s design: its traditional cannage increasingly gave way to a variety of decorative techniques like embroidery threads, bugles and appliqués. These innovations were further developed by the current creative Director, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

这款标志性的戴妃包历史可以追溯到1994年,由当时的迪奥时装公司创意总监詹弗兰科·费雷(Gianfranco Ferre)设计。这款手提包是用针织物制成的,最初被称为“Chouchou”(从法语直译过来就是“最受欢迎的”)。事实上,这是法国第一夫人贝尔纳黛特·希拉克最喜欢的包。随后,她在参观大皇宫的保罗·塞尚展览时,向戴安娜女士赠送了一款黑皮Chouchou包,这是时尚界的一见钟情;迪夫人成了这个包最狂热的崇拜者。从那以后,Chouchou就成了“Lady Dior”的笔名。

在Lady Dior 项目推出之前,在迪奥前创意总监Raf Simons的赞助下,经典款包已经被做了一些改变。西蒙斯的时代见证了Lady Dior设计的某些方面的转变:它的传统衬垫逐渐让位于各种装饰技术,如刺绣线、喇叭和贴花。这些创新由现任创意总监玛丽亚·格拉齐亚·基乌里(Maria Grazia Chiuri)进一步发展。

Appreciation of art has always been part of Dior’s design philosophy. In 2008, Dior organized the first large-scale exhibition of Chinese art in Beijing, where artist Liu Jianhua presented the Lady Dior bag as a pedestaled sculpture in gold-colored ceramics.  This work became the beginning of the “Lady Dior As Seen By”project. Over the next five years, sculptors, photographers, video art masters and filmmakers presented bold variations both of the Lady Dior bag itself and other artworks it has inspired, with exhibitions celebrating the iconic accessory held all over the world.

艺术欣赏一直是迪奥设计理念的一部分。2008年,迪奥在北京举办了中国艺术的第一次大型展览,艺术家刘建华将Lady Dior包作为镀金陶瓷的基座雕塑进行了展示。这件作品成为了“Lady Dior As Seen By”项目的开始。在接下来的五年里,雕刻家、摄影师、视频艺术大师和电影制作人推出了大胆的变化,包括Lady Dior包本身,以及它所启发的其他艺术作品,庆祝这个标志性配饰的展览在世界各地举行。

Mickalene Thomas Lady Dior 4

In 2016, the artist Marc Quinn designed his own Lady Dior handbag to mark the opening of the brand’s boutique in London.  Quinn’s bag was such a resounding success that the French Fashion house decided to launch an artistic project to give rise to more such designs. In 2018, Maria Grazia Chiuri proposed to dedicate the third edition of Lady Dior Art to the feminine, as only female artists were invited to recreate the Lady Dior bag. As usual, they had complete freedom of creativity and imagination. When Dior invites artists to create a bag, they have only one stipulation – stay loyal to the classical shape of the accessory. All other design aspects are up to the artists.

Dior Lady Art is an international project, which embraces contemporary artists from all over the world with the common goal of create a new masterpiece – focusing on the bag as art.  Let’s see what reimaginings next year’s fifth instalment will bring.

2016年,艺术家马克·奎因(Marc Quinn)设计了自己的Lady Dior手袋,以纪念该品牌在伦敦的精品店开业。奎因的手袋大获成功,这家法国时装公司决定启动一个艺术项目,推出更多这样的设计。2018年,玛丽亚·格拉齐亚·基乌里(Maria Grazia Chiuri)提议将第三版的戴妃包艺术(Lady Dior Art)献给女性,因为只有女性艺术家被邀请来重现Lady Dior包。像往常一样,她们享有绝对的创造自由和想象自由。迪奥邀请艺术家设计手袋时,他们只有一个规定——忠于配饰的经典造型,所有其他的设计都取决于艺术家。

Dior Lady Art 是一个齐聚世界各地的专注于包的艺术揣着创造新杰作的共同目标的艺术家的国际项目。让我们拭目以待即将登场的第五期的新面孔吧!

#3 Lady Dior Bag by Morgane Tschiember